since we're at it, I'm interested in your opinions of Rei Kawakubo.
The thing no-one ever talks about, with Comme and Rei, is the enormous business they have built up. Which, essentially, means she can propose very, very difficult ideas at catwalk and also at retail level, because those PLAY Comme t-shirts, and the Noir line, and the knitwear can shore it all up.
That gives her a huge amount of freedom. That’s why her clothes are so interesting, because she’s pleasing herself entirely. There’s something inquisitive and exploratory about them.
I also love that, for all the deep thought, you don’t generally need an instruction manual to decipher Comme collections. They’re actually quite straight-forward. A collection is full of massive, monstrous cardigans. Guess what? She’s thinking about monsters! A collection is all two-dimensional felt. Guess what? She’s thinking about flat stuff.
The interesting thing is why Kawakubo is thinking about that, and what that says about today. That flat show, in an age dominated by image, by two-dimensional rather than three-dimensional experience of fashion, speaks volumes. Ironically.
There isn’t a dissertation on your seat about the ideas inside Comme clothes, but one day people will write dissertations about them.